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| Mustang Doctor Ask the Auto Doctor, by Junior Damato Dear Doctor: I own a 2007 Mustang GT five-speed manual transmission and want to either add some performance equipment to it or upgrade to a 2011 GT. My question is, Have you driven the new Mustang with an automatic transmission? Is the 5-liter that much better than my 4.6? Answer: Our test Mustang was the new 2011 5.0 automatic convertible and what a car it is for the money. In stock form with the six-speed automatic, 412 hp stock, you are in for one giant step ahead. Ford has done it right with this car and drive line package. The car has more power and performance than you would believe. A few add-on performance parts right from Ford Motor Sport will make it even better, if you want. The lined convertible top is very quiet on the highway, and gone is the wind noise from the old convertible tops. This is a car that you need to test drive before spending any money on your current Mustang.
Dear Doctor: I have a 1996 Ford Mustang 4.6-liter V-8 with the "check engine" light. Diagnostic test fault codes read evaporation system, shorted purge flow sensor, plus codes 171 and 174 (right and left cylinder banks running lean). I replaced the defective parts and cleared the fault codes. The car ran great for 60 miles, but the "check engine" light came back on. The same fault codes showed. The Mustang also has an aftermarket cold air intake system. Any advice? - Bill Dear Bill: The fault codes 171 and 174 are indeed lean codes. You need to find out when the codes were set what the readings were on the engine temperature and the engine speed. The use of a high-performance air filter can add to a lean condition, especially on late model vehicles. Intake vacuum leaks, or any vacuum leak, dirty mass air flow meters are all common culprits on Ford vehicles.
Dear Doctor: We own a 1987 Mustang GT 5.0-liter V-8 engine with automatic transmission. It was purchased new and now has 120,000 miles. The car runs great, but in the last 60 days it has failed to start twice. Both the fuel pump and filter were replaced a year ago. The shop checked the computer for trouble codes but there were none. - Tom Dear Tom: Intermittent no-start conditions can be hard to locate without any information. Here are a few suggestions. Hook up a simple spark tester to any spark plug. The testers cost about $10 in most auto parts store. The small lead wire from the tester can be left either on the dash, or taped to the corner of the windshield. Also, check two relays that do wear out: One is the power relay and the other is for the fuel pump. The replacement relays must have the same part number.
Dear Doctor: I own a 1983 Ford Mustang with the 5.0-liter V-8 four-barrel Holley carburetor manual transmission. The vacuum advance unit on the distributor keeps breaking down about every 2,000 miles. I have researched multiple brands and they all have the same problem. Do you have any suggestions as to what brand to use? - Jim Dear Jim: I suggest checking the MSD ignition company for its distributors. They have high-quality performance complete distributors with multiple spark output per cylinder. They also have distributors without the side vacuum advance unit. Back in the old days, Ford had a dual diaphragm advance unit on the distributor. One side was to actually retard the timing at idle. This feature was to lower emissions.
Dear Doctor: I own a 2001 Ford F-150 Lightning 5.4-liter supercharged V-8 with 40,000 miles. Recently, I was checking the air filter and found some oil in the inlet attached to the supercharger. I cleaned the oil and rechecked it one week later and found a very small amount of oil again. I replaced the PCV and checked the vacuum. My mechanic said the oil is not draining fast enough back into the oil pan. The engine runs great and there is no sign of a problem. What are your thoughts? - Eric Dear Eric: The design of the intake system does allow some oil to puddle in the bottom of the air filter housing. I have replaced the factory air intake system with aftermarket fresh air systems and the oil problem has gone away. There are many power upgrades that will make a big difference. A supercharger pulley change and computer reprogramming are the two improvements that I would recommend you do.
Dear Doctor: My 2002 Ford F-150 Super Duty with the 5.4-liter engine has just 52,000 miles on it. Currently, my truck is being serviced to replace the manifolds. This is the fourth time since owning the truck that I've had this done - totally at my expense. I have spoke with my local Ford dealership, questioning whether this is a manufacturing defect. The problem occurs when I attach and pull my trailer. Is there a way to determine if my truck is a "lemon"? - Irwin Dear Irwin: I suggest replacing the manifolds with actual exhaust headers. The factory exhaust manifolds crack under the heat from expansion and contraction. The aftermarket exhaust headers will actually give you more power as well. Make sure you buy a good quality header with a protective coating. Problem solved.
Dear Doctor: I purchased a 2002 Ford Ranger program truck 3.0-liter V-6 engine with an automatic transmission. The engine makes a noise like a belt problem, which is worse when it rains. I took the car back to the dealer. He said they fixed it, but the noise is still there. - Penny Dear Penny: Take the truck into the dealer or any other shop when the noise is present. Have the technician disconnect the belt to verify the noise is belt-related. I replace a lot of automatic belt tensioners, and sometimes even go with the next size smaller belt. Always ask the technician to clean the pulleys with a clean cloth and carburetor cleaner. Never use any chemicals to lubricate the belts or pulleys.
Dear Doctor: With the price of fuel so high I am looking for ways to gain fuel mileage. I ran across an advertisement for a product that hooks into the PCV system for both gas and diesel engines. The product claims increased fuel mileage, lower emissions, and reduced engine wear. What are your thoughts? - Amos Dear Amos: Yes, the price of fuel is high, so a lot of fuel saving devices will show up on the market. I have seen them all, and all the claims they make. There are water-mist types that hook into the PCV system, magnets that attach to the gas or diesel line, additives for both oil and gas, and devices that swirl the incoming air into the engine. To date, I have never seen any of these items work. Synthetic oil, proper maintenance and correct air pressure are your best bet for maximum fuel mileage.
Junior Damato is an ASE-certified Master Technician. E-mail questions to info@motormatters.biz Send questions to: Auto Doctor, 3 Court Circle, Lakeville, MA 02347
This page was last updated on 12/17/11. |
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